Jefferson, Ohio to Reading Center, New York

Dogs Playing in Snow

Scarpa 6000 double boot review by Dave Searle

High in the Dru Coulior all photos courtesy of Dave Searle



This is Dave's first gearreview on Cold Thistle, but hopefully not the last. Dave and a few other Brits are living and climbing hard in Cham. Likely more good alpine climbing done in a typical weekend there than in all of the USA every winter.



I respect the opinions of climbers out there and actually doing things. Ally, Jon, Willare a few I met in Chamlast winterthat are "doing it". Dave is right in there as well. His opinions are hard earned and worth the read.



You can read more about what Dave is up to here:



http://searler.com/



Scarpa 6000 review.





I have been using my Scarpa 6000 now for about a year and on the most part I have been really impressed with them.







Dave in his red chuck hut slippers, Spantik and 6000 at his side.

General Design and Features



When I was first on the market for a pair of winter boots (and this was my first pair) I was strongly recommend by lots of people to go for the La Sportiva Spantik. I tried them both on in the shop for hours, in different sizes and came to the conclusion that the 6000 fit me slightly better. This was perhaps the main reason I went for them in the end however I also prefered the design of the 6000 too. They seemed to be more nimble and precise and I prefer having a gaitered boot any day of the week as it keeps them drier when your wading through snow and it means that the laces aren't subject to any wear. The sole unit it thinner than on the Spantik which sacrifices warmth but gains precision.



Fit



I had a slight problem with heel lift after using them maybe three of four times. I didn't have this problem in the shop and it was strange that it developed over time. I have rectified that now with sticky back foam stuck to the liners around my heel and a heel raiser to lock my heel into the back of the boot. I would have probably had this problem in any boot as I do have particularly narrow heels. Now they fit like a dream. If your set on these boots then it is worth remembering that if you have a low volume foot like mine then they can be made to fit.



Lacing



To start with I was a fan of the lacing system, it seemed easy to tighten up and easy to use with big gloves but I pretty soon realized that the locking cleat eventually works itself loose after a few hours of climbing or walking. I originally combated this problem by tying a normal shoe knot over the top of the cleat but now I have taken it off completely and now I just use a reef knot to fasten them. I never feel the need to adjust the laces when I'm climbing so now when I'm tying them in the hut or at the bivi I use a knot that won't come lose and this seems to be the best option for me. I think the lacing system could do with a rethink in my opinion as I have had other friends who have had similar problems with it. Perhaps a beefier cleat or thicker, less slick laces which are easier tie?



Warmth



I have been really impressed with the warmth of these boots as well. I thought that they weren't going to be as warm as a Spantik but I have since realised it depemds entirely on your circulation and the fit as to whether or not you'll feel the cold. I have sat two nights out in them without a sleeping bag and I didn't have any major issues. The first and worst of the two was on the Colton/Macintyre on the Grandes Jorrasses. Me and my two buddies got benighted at about 4300m with only a two man man bothy shelter and half a karimat to share. It was November here in Cham and the ambient temperature was close to -15C and felt much more with windchill. Jim and Gav both had Spantiks and I was in my 6000ers and I was really worried about my feet but the only option was to sit and suffer.... which we did.... for 8 hours. The night passed slowly and I emerged with very minor nerve damage to my big toe (phew). Jim had the same and Gav was fine. I don't think the 6000ers are as warm as the Spantiks but if you have good circulation then these should be fine for what they are recommend for (winter alpinism and greater range climbing up to 6000m). I think my circulation is average and for most of the climbing I have done with them (alpine north faces in autumn and spring) they have been spot on. Light and dexterous enough for mixed climbing, warm enough for the kind of temperatures you encounter out here and stiff enough to plough up a 1000m of ice without your calves exploding out the back of your trousers.



Eiger N face

Wear



They haven't shown much sign of wear yet. I had a small nick in the orange fabric after their first days use scrambling over sharp granite boulders on my way up to the Carrington/Rouse on the north face of the Pelerins. I though that was going to set the tone for how they were going to fair but that is the only damage they have sustained in the year I have had them which I think is pretty impressive as I have done some long approaches on sharp granite moraine, mixed climbed in Scotland and they have been up six 1000m+ north face routes as well as a load of shorter mixed routes.



Crampon Compatabilty



One issue that I encountered with these boots was getting my crampons to fit. When I first got these boots I had a pair of plastic bailed G14 (older version). I strapped them on and started off up without really paying a huge amount of attention to how they fit. I felt pretty insecure on the first route and it was only on closed inspection when I looked at the set up that I realised the front points were only forward about 5mm or so from the front of the boot as supposed to 25-35mm as I would normally expect. I worked out that it was because the sole unit is really narrow at the front and it doesn't hold the crampon far enough forward. So back to the shop I went for a new pair of crampons (G20s). It was a hungry month after that! So be warned check your crampons on them first.



In an ideal world I would change two things about these boot.



1. I would make them tighter around the heel to combat heel lift. It might just be that I have really skinny heels but some other guy's I know who have them would say the same thing.



2. I would change the lacing system to something more reliable. Its pretty frustrating having your boots come undone on you when your ankle deep in snow, trying to hop about getting them done up again.



All in all they are really great boot, and have definitely become very popular out here in Chamonix and for good reason. After all Ueli Steck was the main man behind the design of these boots and he knows what to look for in a good boot! I'd change a few things like I've said but I'm really happy with them and if I was on market for a pair of winter boots again I'd make the same choice.



Colton/ Macintyre on the Grand Jorasses

Mount Erie ..

The original plan was to head to the desert for some climbing. But in a strange twist the weather was forecast to be better west of the mountains. So Sabrina and I changed our plans and headed to Mount Erie. The hope was to clip some bolts and maybe do a little top roping. We left Seattle around 7am and arrived near the top of Mount Erie around 8:45.

We were attempting to access the Powerline Crag and had some minor difficulty determining where to park. (Thankfully we brought two guidebooks with us.) Then we headed out on the trail in an attempt to find the crag. In typically Mount Erie fashion, we hiked too far over some sketchy terrain. We were only about 20' above a trail that looked level and should lead us back to the crag, but could not find a way down. We hiked back and eventually found the crag and our starting point for the day, False Impressions (5.8).

It was a bit chilly and Sabrina and I procrastinated before I decided to do the first lead. By this time, a man and a woman arrived and started on the route immediately to the right of False Impressions. I balked at the high first bolt and committing step out onto the route and handed the lead over to Sabrina. She balked a bit before she got going and she was on her way. She made her way smoothly through the first four bolts and then hung because of the pump of figuring out the next move. After getting back on the wall, she made quick work of the rest of the route. I followed the route, and found it more difficult than I probably would have on lead. I also took a direct start which eliminates the committing step out, but it means you are climbing for 10-12' before reaching the first bolt. Sabrina climbed it again on top rope and found it more difficult to follow as well.

Sabrina cleaning the anchors on False Impressions

A crowd had gathered by this point and there were now six other people in the area besides ourselves. So Sabrina and I headed to the east end of the crag to climb a few more bolted routes. This involved a scramble up to a ledge system which was somewhat precarious. Fortunately there was an anchor bolt that we anchored into as well as secured our backpacks to. One of the other parties also came up to the ledge and we negotiated routes.

I led the 5.8 Finishing Touch which I found easier than False Impressions. (Perhaps why one guidebook lists it as a 5.7+?) It was less steep and had some thin balance moves. Sabrina led it after me and found it more difficult. I followed her lead and we did an ill advised walk off to climber's right to get back. (We were using a natural anchor and the only rap anchor was being used by the other party.)

Sabrina on Finishing Touch

After our walking excursion, we set our sights on No Holds Barred (5.10a). I got the first lead and cruised up the easy section at the bottom to the second bolt. I paused for a long time attempting to unlock the moves above me all while my legs were getting pumped. I finally hung and attempted again. It wasn't working. I lowered off and rested my legs and then had back at it. This time I was successful as I had made a plan from the ground. I then fell repeatedly trying to figure out the next set of moves. Part of my issue was that I had not seen a critical hold for my right hand that was near the fourth bolt. After finding the hold I was able to move up and complete the route. Sabrina led it after me and had a short fall at one point and hung a bit at another point before completing the route. I tried it again on top rope without any issues.

Sabrina climbing No Holds Barred

At this point we contemplated what to do next. We knew we had to leave the immediate vicinity as there were no climbs left for us to do. Where we started in the morning had become crowded, and that was no longer an option either. So we were going to have to scramble down from the ledge to walk up and out. I decided that we should put our packs on and climb Finishing Touch again so we would be at the trail. Sabrina agreed if I would lead it. So I did. In the mid afternoon after a bit of climbing, the pack really affected my ability to climb. It made the 5.8 feel harder than the .10a we had just climbed. Near the top I avoided the crux of the route by traversing over to the final moves of No Holds Barred. I anchored to a tree and brought Sabrina up.

We debated briefly about going to another location to climb but Sabrina suggested we relax and enjoy the view. Being fairly tired and knowing the difficulties of getting to another crag on Erie, I agreed and we sat a bit on an outcropping enjoying the day before returning to the car to go home.

Glacier, Whitehorse and Three Fingers

Overall this was a great trip. It was nice to get out with Sabrina who I had been missing going out with. While the forecast was for "mostly cloudy" the day went from cold and overcast to sunny and warm. Short sleeves weather in the afternoon was welcomed by all. I felt I climbed well enough, but was hoping to climb better. I enjoyed all the routes we did, and would probably recommend them to others.

You Know You Are Obsessed When...

...you're tempted to stop and examine every bike you see, no matter how nice or "crappy." Your walking companions are accustomed to this and stop in front of bicycles pre-emptively when you are with them.



... you walk by a freshly painted house or fence and wonder what the closest matching RAL colour code would be. You narrow it down to two, both of which you remember by heart.



...you get confused when trying to walk places. You are accustomed to the cycling route.



...you happen upon a scenic spot, and you wonder how well your bike would photograph there.



...it is impossible to snap a photo inside your apartment without getting at least a small piece of bike in the frame.

...you decide to rent a boat on vacation, and it ends up being a pedal boat.



...you arrive in a foreign country and the first thing you do is sort out your bike situation. Later you also tend to the small stuff, like making sure your mobile phone works and that you can withdraw cash. You don't even bother with public transport.



Bicycle in Vienna? Check! Despite the pouring rain and the worst jetlag ever.

Local ice conditions photos

Some of the ice in SWPA is still in decent shape! For today...

Laura and I spent a few hours today checking some of the local ice climbing areas. Some were in bad shape and will surely fall down, while others... well they look good for now and will hopefully survive the warm spell ahead of us. Today temps at the different crags varied from 46 to 36°. The forecast is calling for temps up into the mid 50's and possibly even 60° over the weekend with cooler weather coming after that. Looks like dry tooling until then. Speaking of dry tooling, we did spy a few new lines that may receive some attention over the warm up. Keep posted for details on that. For now on to the current conditions




IRISHTOWN, Lower wall

Mouth of Madness WI5- and The Prow WI3 M4R, started, but never filled in

Dynamite M6+ is waiting for you

Dirty-T M4+ ready to go...

New dry tool line? #1

New dry tool line? #2

OHIOPYLE, Lower Meadow Run

Laura walking across the bridge on approach

Ice lines are sunbaked and never fully formed

Main Flow WI3+ will need to reform

Anger Management M6 and Caveman M7 were climbable

The start to Captain Caveman M7

Elsewhere in SWPA

This 200' beauty was sweet!

The Sick-le WI5+ M6 free hanger is 40-50' long currently and
still not touching...Going down, in a bad way!

Fall Turns

There's been some great skiing on the Muir Snowfield this fall so far. Between storms, and those 'tweens have been small, there have been some good snow conditions for skiing. I last went up to Camp Muir on Friday November 2nd. All those gargantuan suncups have been filled in. Ski penetration has been pretty nice at less than 5 cm in most places so skinning up was fast.









I've taken the webcam down for the season. Although we did get it working again, it's just too much to maintain in the winter, so we'll save it for next season.




Public shelter is open, but it may be snowed in when you get there. Expect to shovel out the entrance. Could take a long time and you may be exposed to the wind while you're digging (and tired and cold)...




A toilet is open near the public shellter, which may need to be dug out, too.




Remember a few things this winter:

 -Get a forcast from the NWAC before you go.

-If overnighting, remember a permit, a pass and to park in the overnight area at Paradise.

-Pack for contingencies, such as getting stuck out for an unplanned overnight.

Surprises at Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel in Tallinn

When I am travelling alone, the location of the hotel I will be staying at takes centre stage in the planning. I have my budget limits of course but I would rather spend a little more for a hotel that is centrally and conveniently located in town. Safety and near to everything are imperative. Sometimes I get lucky and get an affordable lovely hotel, sometimes not.



In Tallinn, I think I had a nice hotel that did not break the bank, and with some surprising twists as well.



The Meriton Old Town ‘Garden’ Hotel



Website: Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel







In Tallinn, Estonia I stayed for 2 nights and had roughly 3 days to enjoy the oldest city in the north. I stayed at the Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel which is part of the Meriton Tallinn Hotels. The hotel is a 16th century merchant house restored into a modern and charming historical hotel in the centre of old town Tallinn.



Do take note that there are 2 Meriton Old Town Hotels in Tallinn old town centre. The first one is called ‘Meriton Old Town Hotel’ located beside the old town’s ancient city walls, and where I stayed is the ‘Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel’ located in the center at both busy main streets, Pikk and Lai streets (the hotel is housed between 2 main boulevards and thus have 2 entrances). The word ‘garden’ thereby is the operative word here.



Many people get the 2 hotels mixed up and end up booking a room at the wrong hotel. The other hotel is very nice, I came across it while walking around and thought it was cute, but the one where I stayed at is very central which I quite prefer.



The surprises of this hotel are its café and the breakfast rooms but I’ll share first my room.



My Charming Room











My room was spacious for a standard double-bed room accommodation. The charming colour scheme of pale yellow gold and white was very smooth and light to the eyes while the floral baroque patterned red carpet was an elegant contrast.



The downside was the toilet and bathroom. No windows, they were not separate and tight. Moreover, the sink was located on the too narrow hallway and the mirror above it has a glass bracket where you can place your stuff. Whenever I brush my teeth and use the faucet and water, my head would get caught up with the bracket. It was soooo annoying.



Café Mademoiselle



This was one of the biggest surprises. I adore cafes and nice places aka hotspots, especially if they are themed and beautifully interior designed. Café Mademoiselle is one of those cafes in Tallinn that a city visitor should not miss, while hotel guests are lucky to be treated with easy access because this café is the café of Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel!



Here are a few pictures of this elegant Parisian style café:



















When in Estonia, do try the local coffee with Vana Tallinn liquor.









Outside the hotel on Pikk street is an open-air terrace served by Café Mademoiselle.







There is also another cafe terrace in the hotel located in the inner courtyard near the reception but this is only accessible on Lai street and I think only open during the summer months.



Hotel Toilet with an Ancient Well



If you are not a hotel guest but you have come to visit the café or the restaurant in the cellar, do stop by at the toilet because you will be in for a cool surprise. There is a big hole inside the toilet! Actually, this is an ancient well, but don’t worry it is covered in glass. Try standing on it though.









This is the hallway going to Café Mademoiselle (and the Estonian Dining Room) and to the courtyard of the hotel. On this hallway is the toilet with the ancient well, see arch door on the left.







Breakfast at the Estonian Dining Room



More surprises are coming! Face to face with a bull head, or maybe a different type of elk – reindeer head? I am not sure, you tell me!







Watch your head when you go down the stairs please.











My first breakfast took place in the cellar of the hotel, at the Estonian Dining Room Restaurant. The cellar's walls are made of brick limestone and the ceiling of dark mahogany coloured wooden panels. It is very nice and cosy, and perhaps typically Estonian, what with that animal head on the wall. In Madrid, Spain, many restaurants have them on the walls as well. Read here: El toro (bull's) head



The Estonian Dining Room is a restaurant of the hotel specialising in Estonian Kitchen (which I found out is very similar to the German Kitchen) but they use this place sometimes as a breakfast room in the mornings.



The Breakfast Room of Café Mademoiselle



And the last surprise was my second breakfast, this time at the breakfast room of Café Mademoiselle.











I thought we would have breakfast at the café but when I arrived I was redirected to the adjacent room, the (main) breakfast room of the hotel actually. The interior design is different from the café and compliments more my room in slightly French Victorian with a very feminine touch, unlike the Parisian vogue cafe that has a snarky bit Moulin Rouge design.



In the afternoons the breakfast room is used as a function room by the hotel. Buffet breakfasts (on both occasions) were very good, lots of vareity, unfortunately I am not a huge breakfast person.



Except for the toilet and bathroom, I am very satisfied with this hotel.